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Sunday, March 10, 2019

Sibling Rivalry?

If you search the internet for "littermate syndrome," you'll find many articles and posts explaining how keeping two littermates (or getting two puppies at the same time) can backfire in big ways.  While this certainly is not a 100% rule, it is a very serious situation and should be thought about carefully before deciding to raise two puppies at the same time.  

I have had sibling puppies in my home at the same time as fosters.  I've always made it a priority every day to give them a lot of separate time - separate sleeping areas, crates, playtimes, training times, socialization times, etc.  This means a lot of work on my part.  Having one puppy is a lot of extra work for awhile, but adding that times two = a LOT of work.  

It's important, though, that each puppy learn to be confident and independent on its own, not always relying on its sibling to see how to respond in different situations.  It's also important to the welfare of each dog that it grows up learning how to function without the other.  Things happen - dogs pass away, or get sick and need to stay at the vet, or need to be walked separately, or ... ??

Dogs that don't learn to function well on their own will be extremely stressed when they are separated from that security blanket of the other dog.  If you've read my blog for long, you know that stress can have very adverse effects on the physical, emotional, mental and behavioral well-being of that dog.  

I've also refused to foster two dogs together from the same intake group.  Most of the dogs I fostered had concerning behavior histories, and they came to me for rehab.  It's often very difficult to create changes in concerning behavior if the dog is still overly dependent on their sibling or housemate.  Changes can happen more quickly and permanently if the dogs can be separated.  But this is not always possible. 

Working in a shelter situation, I see this very sad side of littermate syndrome every day.  Two (or sometimes more) dogs are dropped off at the shelter with the comments, "oh, they need to be adopted together."  This is one of the saddest things for a shelter to hear.  You see, it's a job in itself to get single animals all adopted into great homes - when it is stipulated that they must be adopted together, those animals are more likely to sit in shelters for extended periods of time (or not make it out at all).

There are situations where bonded dogs cannot safely be separated.  They will injure themselves trying to escape to join the other dog.  They won't eat.  They may even begin showing self-injurious behaviors such as chewing on themselves until sores appear.  There are many situations where one dog has not learned to function on its own and its buddy passes away ... only for the other dog to pass away shortly afterwards, most likely from grief and stress.

As a professional trainer, I've had many clients contact me with issues developing between their dogs.  These may be siblings adopted together, or often, they are dogs from different litters, but raised together from a young age.  In many of these cases, the concerning behaviors have been going on for awhile and are being seen cropping up in other situations as well. 

I was reminded in a big way recently about the dangers of littermate syndrome.  I broke up two very serious fights among littermates this past week.  What really stood out to me, though, is the age of these puppies.  The puppies are just shy of four months old!  All are happy, outgoing, sociable puppies, that apparently had lived together thus far with no issues.  This is perhaps the most serious display between littermates that I've seen at such a young age.  

These fights were extremely serious.  Nothing broke the aggressor's (for lack of a better description - the puppy on top doing the biting and shaking) focus.  I didn't even get a glance away for a second in order to break up the fight - not noise, not movement, not bodily contact, not even trying to move a large object between them.  These puppies meant business. 

I had to scoop one up inside a rigid plastic whelping box and hold him inside it against the wall in order for the other one to slink away to safety.  And I held him there in the box for many moments until he calmed down enough for me to touch him and lead him away.  He was not going to give up the fight. 

What started the fight?  I really don't know.  I was there with them in the room, and it just exploded and escalated very quickly.  There was blood.  There was a puppy screaming and pinned down not able to get up.  And there was the one on top, completely engrossed on biting the other one in a frenzy.

It's not safe for these four month old puppies to be with each other anymore, which is very sad for all concerned.  However, they continue to be happy, outgoing puppies, and have not shown that they have issues with other, older, unrelated dogs or with people. 

Please research littermate syndrome - don't just read one site, read several.  Get the real gist of the broadness of the situation and symptoms, as well as what can be done to provide each puppy with lots of individual training and socialization to build confidence and independence.  This may be something that you are capable of doing and you're willing to take a chance with two puppies, or it may not be.  

But please research first.  Educate yourself and know what you're getting into.  It could go very smoothly for you, or it may not.  If it goes badly, it's heartbreaking to have to rehome one of your dogs because they no longer get along, and it's also heartbreaking to live in a home with dogs that need to be kept separate all the time so they don't hurt each other. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Ways to Appreciate More Treats!

Vinny says:

February 23rd - It's International Dog Biscuit Appreciation Day!  What a GREAT day!  I really appreciate dog biscuits every day, but having a special day means that my person will have a wonderful reminder to let me have even more of them!

So I started to think about more ways that I can get (and appreciate) more dog biscuits!

Do more tricks!

What about puppy dog eyes and an adorable expression?

Follow my nose!

Play with puzzle toys!

Go shopping!

Smooch my favorite biscuit baker!

What are some of your favorite ways to get more treats and biscuits?

Saturday, February 16, 2019

Long Distance Traveling with Vinny

What are some considerations when taking a long-distance and/or extended stay trip with your dog?  I'm getting ready to take just such a car trip with Vinny (blind/deaf).  He's an experienced traveler, and there are certain things I take into consideration to keep him happy and content when he's away from home for so long.

Vinny is a fabulous traveler, enjoys riding in the car, and is excited to explore new places.  But even so, being away from home can be stressful.  It's important that I have a plan for keeping Vinny as relaxed and happy as possible. 

Are We There Yet?  

We will need to spend most of two days in the car to get to our destination.  Vinny travels in a crate which is strapped down securely so it won't slide or bump around.  I choose to have him ride in a crate for safety reasons.  A crate will help to keep him safe from being tossed around in the car should I have to stop suddenly, but it will also keep him safe from the luggage and other items in the car hitting him if they shift suddenly.  

In his crate, he has a familiar bed, some favorite toys, and some bones to chew to help him pass the time.  I keep food puzzle toys handy along with some special treats, so I can offer him one periodically to exercise his mind and give him something to focus on.  Vinny can't see me or hear me, nor can he hear the radio or my singing (which might be a good thing!).  It's important to me that he have things to occupy him.  I may even give him a new toy to explore. 

It's important on a long trip to provide lots of water and potty breaks, and a chance for Vinny to stretch his legs.  I have a long tracking leash where I can get to it easily.  Rest areas often have larger grass areas where I can let him wander and sniff or even run a little bit.  He also needs to have access often to fresh water.  When finding interesting places for us to stop along the way, we explored whether they were dog friendly.  This allows us to do some sightseeing while Vinny gets to come along with us.  

Checking In

Once at the hotel, there is an entirely new environment for Vinny to get used to.  I've found it is easier for me to check in and get my things into the room before bringing Vinny in.  This also allows me to check the room for ways I can make it more accommodating for Vinny since he can't see.  Can I create a clearer path for him by moving floor lamps, wires, chairs, etc?  

I always check under the beds - I have found stray medications which have rolled under beds and been missed by vacuums.  I sure don't want my dog eating that!  I close the toilet lid if possible and if not, I make sure I don't allow him free access to the bathroom.  I know they use toxic cleaners and I don't want to risk my dog deciding that this is the day to sample toilet water!  I always keep trash cans up on counters and out of Vinny's reach while in the hotel as well.  

Since I've already brought my things to the room (and Vinny's things), I can unpack his bowls, bed, toys and bone so he will notice familiar things of his when he comes into the room.  I do also travel with a small exercise pen that I can set up to help him acclimate if necessary.  He's a fairly seasoned traveler, so I don't really need this anymore.  In the beginning, though, it helped him get used to a smaller area first before setting him loose in the room and helped him not to be so confused with a new space.  Similarly, if your dog is used to using a halo harness, be sure to bring that along.  

I came across a new situation when traveling recently.  A low counter stuck out into the middle of the room with nothing underneath it.  The counter was much lower than most.  But this counter was just the proper height for Collies to knock their faces against - and that was NOT fun!  In this case, I used things to block off the space around and below the counter - luggage, chairs, and the exercise pen.  

Jumping on the Bed

Be prepared to spend some extra time with your dog while getting to the room.  Some dogs take their time to do their business in a new place.  It's wise to make sure you give your dog plenty of time to do everything they need to do before going into the hotel.  Your dog may experience new types of doors, new and various surfaces, new smells.  Take your time and let your dog explore a bit and smell on your way to the room.  

There will be steps and elevators.  Small dogs can feel safer being carried (if they are accustomed to that) in elevators and up and down unfamiliar sets of steps.  Larger dogs will need extra guidance from you and patience about exploring steps that may be different from theirs at home.  Elevators are a great alternative, but require some practice to do safely and fluidly. 

Always be sure when getting on or off an elevator to look first - be sure no one (or other dog) is getting on or off towards you.  If there is another dog in the elevator, I usually will wait to get on the next one.  It's important to block the elevator door with your foot and leg while you help your dog get on/off.  Please don't let your dog get on or off without blocking the door.  Elevator door sensors can't sense a leash and may close on your dog or on the leash with you on one side and your dog on the other.  That is NOT safe!  Also be sure you steer your dog to the back of the elevator away from the closing door so his feet and tail don't get pinched!  

When I get to a new hotel room, I allow Vinny to smell and move around.  I keep him on the leash and stay nearby so I can steer him if he's going to bump hard into something.  He will explore but appreciates having me nearby so he can check in with me while he's moving around the room.  He will find his toys and bed, and I show him where his water is.  After he's checked the room out a few times, I will take off the leash but I am still paying attention.  

He will bump into things as he explores.  If I notice him getting confused or frustrated, I will step in to help him and redirect him in a different direction.  He usually explores a few more times around the whole place off leash and then will come to investigate what I'm doing, find his toys, etc.  

Taking the time to consider what Vinny needs on our travels allows him to have fun exploring new places.  By taking some extra time when we first get to the hotel, I know he will then settle down and be comfortable in the new environment for the rest of our stay.   

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Saturday, February 2, 2019

A Guide Dog for the Blind Dog?

From time to time, I’m asked how someone can go about adopting a dog to become a guide dog for their blind dog.  Or how someone can teach their existing dog to guide the blind dog.  I’ve even been asked what is the best equipment to use to tether the dogs together, so the sighted dog can lead the blind dog around.  Sometimes we even see this happening in the media, and it is presented as a wonderful thing.  

But is it really?

I think first we need to have realistic expectations.  

Should I get another dog to help my blind dog?

When deciding whether to get another dog to help your blind dog, it’s important to consider that each dog is an individual.  Some dogs enjoy dog companions and some don’t.  And even among those that do, each dog has an individual personality, activity level, etc, and will not react to each dog the same.  It’s important to make the right match for everyone concerned.  

Will the blind dog enjoy  having another dog friend?  If so, what temperament and activity level are suitable?  Not all adult or senior dogs enjoy puppies and young, bouncy, active dogs.  Getting a second dog that will bump into or climb on top of the blind dog while trying to play may result in a lovely game between two dogs, or it might result in the blind dog becoming stressed and grumpy.  

Can your household accommodate another dog?  Caring for an additional dog involves greater financial, physical and emotional resources.  Is the household ready to take on those added responsibilities?  

Take your time when deciding whether to add another dog to the family.  Take your blind dog to meet other friendly dogs of various sizes and temperaments while you decide if this will be a good decision for everyone.  If it is, then take the time to find just the right match.  Don't rush into this decision.  

Can my sighted dog lead my blind dog around?

Is it realistic to expect a dog to understand, on a conceptual level, another dog’s blindness?  In my many years of experience with blind and visually impaired dogs, I'd say no, it's not especially realistic.  We all want to see this magical thing happen where the sighted dog takes the blind dog under his care and never lets anything bad happen to it.  This is more of a romantic view of what actually happens. 

I have seen dogs do amazing things for each other, including sighted dogs appearing to lead blind dogs around.  But this is not the norm.  You need to understand going into this, that those idealistic visions are not necessarily realistic. If they happen for you, that's amazing and wonderful.  But please take the time to consider what is probably more realistic.

I don't believe that dogs understand blindness in the way we understand it.  Dogs don't think ahead and realize that their buddy can't see something in his path, so perhaps they better move that buddy out of the way.  But dogs can learn that their blind buddy does things a bit differently.  They learn this by experience, observation and trial and error.  

For instance, my sighted dogs have learned that the best way to engage my blind dogs is to touch them.  They may play chase games or distance games with my other sighted dogs, but those don't work as well with the blind dogs and so the game ends quickly.  They learn that in order to keep the games going with my blind dogs, they need to maintain physical contact.  

Dogs aren't born knowing these different ways of interacting.  They learn them.  Nor are dogs born knowing how to look out for another dog's safety.  When push comes to shove, the sighted dog will push through a narrow space, even knocking over and into the blind dog to get where they want to go.  This is realistic.  This is how life really looks in a household with both blind and sighted dogs. 

Can my dog have a service dog?

A sighted dog leading a blind dog is not considered a guide dog in the service dog or assistance dog realm.  Assistance dog (including guide dog) is a legal term used by the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) to label a specially-trained dog assisting a HUMAN to mitigate a disability.  The assistance dog, when used in accordance to ADA guidelines, is permitted to accompany the HUMAN into public places in order to do its job (in this case guiding the person around obstacles and hazards).  It is the HUMAN with the right to take a specially-trained guide dog into public places. 

A dog does not have the legal right to utilize a guide dog of its own and go into public places where pet dogs are not already permitted.  Guide dogs are taught extensively the skills necessary to lead a blind person.  They are not born knowing how to allow a certain amount of space around their bodies to allow the person to clear an obstacle.  This is something that takes lots of specialized training and practice.  

Should I tether my blind dog to my sighted dog?

Tethering two dogs together, regardless of whether they can see or not, is rarely comfortable for the dogs.  I have not seen an example of tethering dogs together where both dogs are not showing signs of being uncomfortable. 

When dogs are tethered together, we are taking away two things that are very important to their well-being and comfort - personal space and choice.  Personal space is very important to dogs - just like it is to us.  They use space to communicate with each other, to feel safe, and to feel less pressured and stressed by situations.  In order to use space for these purposes, a dog needs to have the choice to move closer or farther away.  

Think about times when you are uncomfortably close to other people - conversations when someone is talking right up close to your face, a crowded elevator, a train or plane commute where you are sitting elbow to elbow with others.  Normally our choice in those situations is to create more space around us.  When we can't do that and our choice is taken away from us, we feel uncomfortable, stressed, maybe even anxious.  

Our dogs experience the same thing.  We take away their choice and their ability to use personal space to feel safe when we tether them to us or to each other.  It is not something to take lightly.  

When a blind dog is tied to a sighted dog with the intention of having it be led by the other dog, both dogs are likely to be stressed.  The sighted dog is being placed into a role and responsibility that is not natural for him.  As discussed above, a dog is not born knowing how to allow extra space around its body for another body not to bump into obstacles, trip over curbs, etc.  So the sighted dog only knows that there is another dog attached to it, following it, touching it, bumping into it or other obstacles.  He doesn't know why.  This is stressful.  What if the blind dog slows down, gets caught on something, or is bumping into things?  The sighted dog is feeling all of this through the tether and also not understanding that information.  Stress builds.  

The blind dog is certainly also stressed - being pulled by another dog into a space and situation he can't see.  It can't possibly feel safe to be pulled along everywhere.  He has no freedom to communicate that he wants to stop or go slower, or that he needs to stop and investigate something to know what it is.  I have seen some videos of blind dogs that are completely shut down and just follow wherever they are dragged, showing no interest in life, because they have no choice.  They must follow or be drug along.  Stress builds. 

Blind dogs can and do enjoy walks and exploring new places, please don't get me wrong.  But they enjoy this most when they can feel safe to explore and discover at their own pace, not because they are forced along.  Blind dogs do often learn to cue off of a sighted dog and follow along.  This learning is done by experience, the same way a sighted dog may learn to play differently with a blind dog.  The blind dog learns from experience that following the sighted dog leads to good and fun things!  This is fabulous and can be very helpful.  

Do you notice the difference?  When tethered, neither dog had a choice and it can be very stressful for both dogs.  Stress is not fun.  But when the dogs can learn from and with each other, each making choices and feeling safe, they can learn how to interact with each other and have fun at the same time!

Ways to encourage a beneficial relationship

There are ways that you can encourage your sighted dog and your blind dog to engage in mutually beneficial relationships.  Help them learn new ways to play together.  Can they enjoy playing tug with a toy together?  Sit on the floor with them and hold a long tug toy in the middle to help temper the play so that both dogs are able to hold the toy and play.  Help less as they get the idea to engage with each other.

If the sighted dog tends to like to play chase games or games at a distance and the blind dog is getting lost, use your own body to become a bridge between them.  Be in on the game.  As the sighted dog starts to dash off, encourage him to come back in close, while using your body to keep the blind dog engaged.  With practice you will probably see the sighted dog begin to realize that he has to stay a bit closer or touch the blind dog more often to keep the game going.  Then you can begin to back out of the game more and more. 

On walks, use two leashes to allow both dogs to walk at a comfortable pace for them, sniff, explore, etc.  A blind dog will often learn to listen for and follow the sound of a sighted dogs ID tags jingling, or you can add a small bell to the sighted dog's harness as well as to your wrist.  This will help the blind dog be able to keep track of each of you.  This may really help your blind dog learn to follow your sighted dog if this is important to you.  (Of course, be sure the sighted dog is not bothered by the sound of a bell jingling first!)

You will probably notice just in the course of day-to-day activities how your blind dog follows the sighted dog's lead. You may notice the blind dog following along slightly behind the sighted dog at mealtimes, potty times, etc, as he follows pathways around the house and yard.  But not all blind dogs will be followers.  Many will also be out in front leading the way!  

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Friday, January 18, 2019

Top 5 Things to Know about Housetraining a Blind Dog

Here are the Top Five things you need to know to successfully housetrain your blind (and blind/deaf) dog.

1. Schedule

Create a schedule for your dog.  Puppies will need to go out more frequently than adult dogs, but it's important to take the dog outside more often than you think is necessary at first.  Times that should definitely be on the schedule are: when the dog wakes up from a nap or first thing in the morning, after running around/playtime/excitement, after meals, before bedtime, before you leave and as soon as you get home if you are leaving the dog alone, anytime the dog leaves its management area (more about this in a bit), and after he drinks a lot of water.

Create your dog's schedule around these times and try to be consistent.  Your dog can learn to be on a consistent schedule.  With a puppy, take him out every 1/2 hour - 1 hour in addition to the above mentioned times.  With adult dogs, if you know the dog emptied itself when you were last outside, you may be able to stretch this time to every 2 hours.

Anytime you notice that the dog has stopped playing or interacting, or is sniffing around suspiciously, get him outside!  Quickly!  It can also be helpful to take your dog to the same spot in the yard each time in the beginning.  The smells of where he went before will remind him of what you want him to do while he's there.

You may need to pick up a smaller dog/puppy, and physically lead a larger dog to get it outside quickly.  With repetition, your dog will learn the path to get itself to the door and outside, but for now, the idea is to get it outside quickly and before an accident can happen!  

Once your dog has been going outside on a schedule, you will begin to notice the specific times that your dog will do his business.  Over time you will begin to see a pattern.  You can use this pattern to learn when your dog needs to go and you can adjust the schedule accordingly so you're not making so many trips outside.  If your dog is a puppy, you will notice this changes over time as he becomes better able to control himself, and he will be able to wait longer between outings.

2. Supervision

It's imperative that you are always supervising your dog during this process.  Giving your dog run of the house when it's not reliably toilet trained is asking for accidents to happen!  Keep the dog in the same room as you so you can watch it closely and can easily get to it if you need to get it outside quickly.  You can use gates, or close doors within the house to keep the dog with you.  If you can't see the dog, you can't prevent a mistake, and you can't teach appropriate behavior.

Many people like to just open the door and let their dog go out into the yard to do its business on its own.  This doesn't really work so well.  At least in the beginning, you will need to be there with your dog.  Help him navigate quickly to the door and outside, help him navigate to the potty area, and then stay with your dog to make sure he goes.  If you just open the door and let him out, you won't know whether he went or not.  If he hasn't gone, or he's not finished yet, when you let him back into the house, he really has no choice but to then do it in the house.

Don't wait for your dog to tell you he needs to go outside.  Some dogs will tell you, others won't.  But until your dog understands to go outside every time, he probably won't.  It's your job to watch closely and use the schedule to prevent any mistakes.  And it's your job to help him get himself quickly and safely outside each time until he knows how to do the route himself.  It may take some time for your dog to learn how to get to the correct door from different areas of the house on his own.

3. Management

Management means that we set up the environment to help our dog be correct and to prevent mistakes.  Dogs learn by practicing - just like we do.  If a dog practices doing its business in the house by being allowed to have accidents, that is what he's going to get used to doing.  He's going to get better and better at going in the house - hmmm.  That's not what we want, is it?  Practice makes better, right?

Instead, if we set up the environment so we prevent him from making and practicing mistakes, and we set up things so that he is encouraged to always do his business outside, he will be practicing going where we want him to.  The less accidents he has in the house and the more times he goes outside, the better!  And, the faster he will learn!

Management can also mean setting up a small area that the dog is unlikely to do his business in, where he can be when we can't supervise him.  This is the management area. If we are going out to run an errand, if we have guests over to watch the game and we know we will be distracted, while we are napping, etc, we then have a small safe place to leave our dog where he can't be wandering the house to do his business.

However, if we leave our dog in this area for too long and he needs to go, he will learn to go in this smaller area.  So it's important, even with management, to supervise as often as we can and to keep to the consistent schedule.

4. Prevention

Remember, remember!  Prevent those indoor accidents at all costs!  Supervise your dog whenever he is with you in the house.  Catch him early before he actually has an accident and get him outside quickly.  With small dogs and puppies, pick them up to get them outside the quickest!  With larger dogs, lead them out as quickly as possible.

If the dog does have an accident, it wasn't his fault.  He didn't do it to spite you.  He did it because he had to go and doesn't yet understand how to hold it to get outside.  Take your dog outside in case he needs to finish - be sure to reinforce if he does go outside!  Then put your dog in the management area while you clean up the mistake.  Use enzyme-based pet safe cleaners to help get rid of any residual odors.  And then supervise more carefully next time.

If by chance your dog continues to have many accidents or starts having accidents after you believe it is fully trained, please take your dog to see its veterinarian.  It's important to rule out conditions such as infections or parasites that may be contributing to your dog not being able to control itself.

5. Reinforce

Dogs learn to repeat behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) with something they like.  This is why it's important to stay with your dog outside in the yard while he does his business.  If you are there with him, you can reinforce him each and every time he does his business outside - which is what you want.

With a blind dog, talk soothingly while he is busy.  Soft praise is important to let him know that you approve of him going outside.  Some blind dogs may also be anxious or hesitant if they think you've left them alone, so your voice and presence will help him to feel better and more likely to want to do his business outside.  If you were to put him out into the yard alone, he might just sit by the door afraid or confused, only to go on the floor once you let him inside.

With a blind/deaf dog, be sure you are touching him.  Gently pet your dog as he is doing his business, or immediately afterwards.  It can also be helpful to keep him on a leash to make sure you are close enough to touch him as he is going.  If you need to run across the yard to get to him in time, you may miss a crucial moment to reinforce the behavior that you want to encourage.

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Friday, January 4, 2019

It's OK to Be Different!

January is It's OK to be Different month!  What a great way to begin the new year, as we are taking a look at making life better for ourselves and our dogs!  We're all different, so that we can all bring something marvelous and unique to this world.  Too often we see bullying or discrimination due to differences - in our human world, but also in the dog world.  This month reminds us to embrace and celebrate our differences and what we can all bring to the world!  Enjoy some wonderful quotes that remind us to be proud of all our differences!  

"If you desire to make a difference in the world, you must be different from the world." 
~Elaine Dalton

Vinny - blind/deaf K9 Freestyle competitor

"I am different.  Not less."  ~Temple Grandin

Vinny - we live by this quote every day.

"In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different."  ~Coco Chanel

The irreplaceable Treasure - blind/deaf therapy dog extraordinaire

"By being yourself, you put something wonderful in the world that was not there before."  
~Edwin Elliott

Vegas - deaf/mostly blind, Expert Trick Dog

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Tuesday, January 1, 2019

Vinny's New Year Resolutions 2019

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**