Conquering the Jumper

Why do dogs jump up?

Chances are, you've all experienced it - either being jumped on by a dog, or having a dog that jumps up onto others!  Jumping up is a common dog-related behavior that is often misunderstood.

Dogs greet their dog friends and family happily and face-to-face contact is important to them and is part of their greeting ritual behavior.  Puppies especially greet adults by licking at their faces.

Our dogs jump up because they want to greet us and others.  But we are not normally down on the dog's level.  Our faces and hands are usually up above the dog's face height.  Dogs learn very quickly that jumping up allows them to reach our hands - which often pet them or play with them or hold good things!  And often, people are quick to reach to pet a cute puppy that is jumping up, thus reinforcing this behavior and encouraging it to happen again and again.

Why do dogs continue to jump?

Jumping up often escalates quickly into a dog's nails raking at skin and clothing, the dog mouthing at hands and arms excitedly, and even the dog slamming its body against the person harder and harder.

Many people give the advice to ignore a dog that is jumping up, saying the dog will stop if it gets no attention.  While I have seen this work in a few situations, in the majority of situations, I see the dog's behavior escalating as in the previous scenario.

A dog that is used to getting a reaction in some way when it jumps will quickly get frustrated as the person tries to ignore its behavior.  The frustration leads to the dog trying even harder to get a response from the person - mouthing, body slamming, raking with nails, etc.  The more frustrated the dog gets, the more aroused it gets, and the more intense the dog's behavior becomes.

If we try to ignore the dog's escalating behavior, at some point, we won't be able to ignore it anymore.  It will begin to become very uncomfortable, painful perhaps.  Then we finally react!  The dog has just learned that if he persists longer and harder, he can get a reaction from us/or the person he is jumping on.  This is really the exact opposite of the result we want.

What's reinforcing the dog's behavior?

In order for the dog to continue the jumping behavior, something must be reinforcing the behavior.  For each dog this might be different.

Is there that one person who seems to like the dog jumping up?  Who always pets and coos at the dog while it's front feet are up off the ground and says, oh don't worry about it?

Is there an opportunity for the dog to jump up on someone and snatch a toy or food from a person's hand?

Is the dog wanting attention and the only way to get attention is by getting scolded to stop jumping?  Or is the dog jumping and interpreting the person's flailing arms and pushing away as play?

If you think about the experience from the dog's perspective, you can probably figure out what its motivation is to continue jumping up.  As long as the behavior is being reinforced, even sometimes, that behavior will continue to stay strong.

How to change the behavior

Put a stop to any inadvertent reinforcement that happens when the dog jumps up.  Be sure that if the dog does jump, it receives no petting or playing or food or toys!  All great things happen when the dog has all four feet on the floor!

Don't ignore your dog when it has all four feet on the floor.  It's easy to ignore a dog that is doing what we want, but because this jumping has become a habit, it's important to catch your dog when it's doing what you want and reinforce a lot!  So anytime you notice your dog has four feet on the floor, take a moment to show the dog your approval!

Sometimes the reinforcement comes from within the dog himself.  Jumping can be a result of the dog becoming over-aroused.  An over-aroused dog is in reaction mode, not calm thinking mode.  He is acting out the way he feels, and this can cause a sense of relief within the dog, which he finds reinforcing.  Helping the dog to be able to feel calmer and stay under threshold can also help to lessen the jumping up behavior in this case. 

We want to make sure the dog's needs to greet us and to get attention from us are being met.  If its needs are not being met, the dog will continue to try to meet those needs, and this may mean continuing to jump up to try to get our attention.  So, what can we do to help prevent jumping and teach new greeting patterns?

What to do instead

Get on the dog's level.  Stoop down, get your hands at the dog's level.  Take a moment to greet your dog and encourage it to say hello into your hands - which are now at its level.  Remember that your dog is so happy to see you and wants to engage with you.  This is one of the great parts of having a dog, right? A dog who meets you at the door and loves the fact that you've come home!  Don't ignore this part of his day.

On a platform

Bring the dog to your level.  A raised platform or area will allow your dog to get higher up so it can greet you closer to your hands and face.  This is helpful if you're not able to get on the floor to say hello.  The dog can be encouraged to get onto a piece of furniture or its platform so it can be greeted in a more appropriate manner.  You can teach a cue for this so the dog knows to get onto the platform or area when asked.  You can even teach a specific behavior such as sitting or lying down once the dog gets up on it.  Remember to place your hands down to your dog's level to help prevent the jumping up.

Ask for other behaviors you appreciate more.  If your dog knows other behaviors, you can use these to redirect it before it jumps up.  For instance, a dog that is sitting can't also be jumping.  A dog doing a trick such as spin isn't going to be jumping on you at the same time.

Use a leash and harness to manage the dog's behavior.  A leash can be used to prevent your dog from jumping on guests until it settles down and isn't so excited.  In the same way, the dog can be asked to go wait on its bed or platform when guests come.  Once the dog has settled down, it may be appropriate to then allow a calmer greeting.

Keeping a container of treats near the door (or other areas that jumping occurs) can offer a distraction and also a reinforcer for keeping four feet on the floor.  Hold the treat at the dog's nose level or lower to prevent jumping.  If you raise your hand up with the treat in it, you will encourage the dog to jump up to get the treat.  Feed the dog low or even drop or scatter some treats on the floor.  Praise while the dog has four feet on the floor and is smelling for the treats.  Done consistently, this can encourage the dog to begin sniffing the floor when people enter, instead of jumping up.

Let the dog jump.  This always remains an option.  It is not up to me to tell you that your dog shouldn't be jumping.  Some people do enjoy having their dog

jump on them.  There is nothing wrong with that.  Just remember that if you allow or encourage jumping sometimes, your dog will most likely also jump when you don't want it to.  Dogs aren't great at telling the difference in contexts and being reinforced for jumping up is fun - so they will want to continue doing it.  It's not fair to encourage it sometimes and get mad at other times.

You can, however, teach your dog a special cue to jump up on you - so jumping up on you becomes like doing a trick.  And, then you will have a way to let your dog know when you want it to jump up.  When you don't want it to jump up, then you can give it a different cue, ask it to go to a platform, or use any number of the other options listed here.

**For more information about training dogs, including blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Sibling Rivalry?

If you search the internet for "littermate syndrome," you'll find many articles and posts explaining how keeping two littermates (or getting two puppies at the same time) can backfire in big ways.  While this certainly is not a 100% rule, it is a very serious situation and should be thought about carefully before deciding to raise two puppies at the same time.  

I have had sibling puppies in my home at the same time as fosters.  I've always made it a priority every day to give them a lot of separate time - separate sleeping areas, crates, playtimes, training times, socialization times, etc.  This means a lot of work on my part.  Having one puppy is a lot of extra work for awhile, but adding that times two = a LOT of work.  

It's important, though, that each puppy learn to be confident and independent on its own, not always relying on its sibling to see how to respond in different situations.  It's also important to the welfare of each dog that it grows up learning how to function without the other.  Things happen - dogs pass away, or get sick and need to stay at the vet, or need to be walked separately, or ... ??

Dogs that don't learn to function well on their own will be extremely stressed when they are separated from that security blanket of the other dog.  If you've read my blog for long, you know that stress can have very adverse effects on the physical, emotional, mental and behavioral well-being of that dog.  

I've also refused to foster two dogs together from the same intake group.  Most of the dogs I fostered had concerning behavior histories, and they came to me for rehab.  It's often very difficult to create changes in concerning behavior if the dog is still overly dependent on their sibling or housemate.  Changes can happen more quickly and permanently if the dogs can be separated.  But this is not always possible. 

Working in a shelter situation, I see this very sad side of littermate syndrome every day.  Two (or sometimes more) dogs are dropped off at the shelter with the comments, "oh, they need to be adopted together."  This is one of the saddest things for a shelter to hear.  You see, it's a job in itself to get single animals all adopted into great homes - when it is stipulated that they must be adopted together, those animals are more likely to sit in shelters for extended periods of time (or not make it out at all).

There are situations where bonded dogs cannot safely be separated.  They will injure themselves trying to escape to join the other dog.  They won't eat.  They may even begin showing self-injurious behaviors such as chewing on themselves until sores appear.  There are many situations where one dog has not learned to function on its own and its buddy passes away ... only for the other dog to pass away shortly afterwards, most likely from grief and stress.

As a professional trainer, I've had many clients contact me with issues developing between their dogs.  These may be siblings adopted together, or often, they are dogs from different litters, but raised together from a young age.  In many of these cases, the concerning behaviors have been going on for awhile and are being seen cropping up in other situations as well. 

I was reminded in a big way recently about the dangers of littermate syndrome.  I broke up two very serious fights among littermates this past week.  What really stood out to me, though, is the age of these puppies.  The puppies are just shy of four months old!  All are happy, outgoing, sociable puppies, that apparently had lived together thus far with no issues.  This is perhaps the most serious display between littermates that I've seen at such a young age.  

These fights were extremely serious.  Nothing broke the aggressor's (for lack of a better description - the puppy on top doing the biting and shaking) focus.  I didn't even get a glance away for a second in order to break up the fight - not noise, not movement, not bodily contact, not even trying to move a large object between them.  These puppies meant business. 

I had to scoop one up inside a rigid plastic whelping box and hold him inside it against the wall in order for the other one to slink away to safety.  And I held him there in the box for many moments until he calmed down enough for me to touch him and lead him away.  He was not going to give up the fight. 

What started the fight?  I really don't know.  I was there with them in the room, and it just exploded and escalated very quickly.  There was blood.  There was a puppy screaming and pinned down not able to get up.  And there was the one on top, completely engrossed on biting the other one in a frenzy.

It's not safe for these four month old puppies to be with each other anymore, which is very sad for all concerned.  However, they continue to be happy, outgoing puppies, and have not shown that they have issues with other, older, unrelated dogs or with people. 

Please research littermate syndrome - don't just read one site, read several.  Get the real gist of the broadness of the situation and symptoms, as well as what can be done to provide each puppy with lots of individual training and socialization to build confidence and independence.  This may be something that you are capable of doing and you're willing to take a chance with two puppies, or it may not be.  

But please research first.  Educate yourself and know what you're getting into.  It could go very smoothly for you, or it may not.  If it goes badly, it's heartbreaking to have to rehome one of your dogs because they no longer get along, and it's also heartbreaking to live in a home with dogs that need to be kept separate all the time so they don't hurt each other. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Adding Scents to Help a Blind Dog?

When looking for advice about living with a blind dog, many sources recommend putting artificial scents in different rooms and on different surfaces for the dog to follow and recognize.

In theory, this sounds wonderfully helpful, but I've actually found that it can be very confusing for the dogs, as well as inconvenient for the human to continually reapply the scents to keep them fresh.

It is common knowledge that a dog's nose is one of its super powers!

It's been described that while we may walk into the kitchen and smell spaghetti sauce cooking, our dog can smell each of the ingredients used to make the sauce individually!

In observing my own blind dogs, they can easily tell the difference in the natural scents around them.  

The leash I use for every day walks smells different than the longer leash I use for letting them run in the fields, and smells different from the leash used for therapy visits.  The nail clippers smell different than the brush or the undercoat rake, even though they are all stored together in the grooming box.  How do I know they smell differently?  I know from my dog's reaction to each of those items - the reaction is different to each by smell alone.

My dogs easily know the difference between the rooms of the house, and even in different areas of each room.  I don't ever add any artificial scents to help them.  Each surface and object in my home has its own scent - a door smells different than a window.  A couch smells different than a rocking chair.  My dog can tell the difference between the smells of his toys and has his favorites, even among ones that are the same texture and shape!  

Has your dog ever had one favorite tennis ball among several?  Perhaps you've experienced this very thing in your home whether your dog can see or not!  Or what about the dog that chooses its very favorite stick and can pick it out of a pile of other sticks anywhere?  It's the same idea!  Our dog's noses are amazing!  

When we add artificial scents within the home, they are normally scents that are strong enough for us to smell readily. This means they are very powerful smells to our dogs - remember that their sense of smell is so much more sensitive than ours!

If I use a scented cleaner in my house, my dogs often sneeze or even go the other way.  My blind dogs don't like to walk on floors that have been cleaned with scented cleaners - even if it's a floor they walk on regularly.   The smell is just too strong for them. 

I think this is why people think that adding scents is helpful.  They add strong smelling scents to objects and obstacles in their home and the dog avoids them, so they think the dog is learning that the lemon scent means a doorway is there, and the pine scent means a piece of furniture is there - but really all the dog wants to do is avoid the strong smell.

It's much nicer to the dog to help him learn from the natural scent of the obstacles in the home so he can learn to navigate on his own.  It's also healthier, as some of the scents used may be full of chemicals that we and our dogs are then inhaling. 

If you've had any experience with nosework or scent work with dogs, you will also know that scent travels!  Think of the spaghetti sauce - you can smell it when you walk into the house, even though the kitchen may be several rooms away!  Right?

When you add a scent to the doorway, it doesn't just stay right there on the wood of the doorway.  It moves and spreads and drifts around on the air currents in your home, moving even several rooms away.  Sometimes scent also will collect in corners or in enclosed spaces, such as under tables or chairs.  Talk about confusing to the dog! 

It's not necessary to add artificial scents to help your blind dog navigate through an environment.  I have lived with blind dogs for a long time, and I have helped many, many clients with blind dogs.  I see it time and time again - dogs are amazing!  They can figure it out without us adding scents to everything. 

Your dog already is learning (or has learned if he's lived in your home for awhile) to associate the natural smells of the various rooms, objects, and obstacles with finding his way around your home.  He recognizes the smell of your couch, your bathroom, his bed, his toys, the path to the doors.  

If your dog is newly blind or is blind living in a new environment, take the time to help lead him around and let him explore while keeping him safe.  Help him learn to navigate his way around common pathways such as to the door to go outside, to his bed, to his toy box and to your favorite cuddling spot on the couch.

He will learn quickly.  And as you watch your dog finding his way around, take a moment to be amazed by the power of his nose!  His super power!

For online articles and resources relating to blind and/or deaf dogs, go check out www.yourinnerdog.com

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How to Teach Your Deaf (and Blind) Dog to be Quiet

I’m always amused when people find out my dogs are deaf. One of their first questions is, “Do they bark?” Oh yes, and boy, can they bark! Some deaf dogs have a very high-pitched bark. Some have a deeper bark.   

You may hear that deaf dogs bark more than hearing dogs.  Some people may even tell you this is because they can't hear themselves so they don't know they are barking.  

The truth is that dogs bark!  It is a trait specific to dogs.  And deaf dogs are really just dogs that can't hear. They still have all the behaviors, urges and needs that other dogs have.  This includes their desire to communicate.  Dogs communicate many things through barking - an alarm that someone or something is outside, to demand attention or other reinforcers, to invite play, out of boredom, from stress, and the list goes on.  Deaf dogs are no different.

There is another truth involved here, and that is that you CAN teach a deaf (or blind/deaf) dog to be quiet when asked.  And you don't need a vibration/shock collar to do it!  All you need is to set aside some time to actually teach your dog what you want.  Here, let me tell you how I teach quiet.

The way I start to teach a dog to be quiet is by naming “quiet” when the dog is actually being quiet and then offer calm praise. I use one finger pressed to my lips as the quiet signal. With a blind-deaf dog, use a touch signal for quiet that is a finger placed gently on top of the dog's muzzle. 

When the dog is being quiet, give the quiet signal and then quickly give the good dog signal and a treat. I do this sequence several times while the dog is quiet. You are essentially naming for the dog what “quiet” is while they are already being quiet. This allows the dog to associate being quiet with the cue.

When the dog does bark (because it will happen), I am ready as soon as the dog stops barking (even if it’s only a quick pause) to give the quiet sign and then the good dog sign. I give a treat after the good dog sign. Chewing the treat helps to distract the dog from whatever it was barking at, which allows me to get more quiet signals practiced and reinforced in quick succession before the barking starts again. It also helps to more strongly reinforce the dog for being quiet. 

Be sure not to give the quiet signal until the dog is quiet at this stage. You are teaching the dog what the quiet signal means, so you must be sure to only give it when your dog is quiet. Until your dog has really learned the quiet cue, practice naming and reinforcing it often whenever he is being quiet. 

Be very sure when teaching quiet that you are not reinforcing the dog for barking. If your dog barks at you and you throw the toy, you are teaching him that barking gets him what he wants and he will be more likely to bark. If your dog barks at you and you give him part of your snack, or pet him, or open the door to let him outside, you are teaching him to bark more. 

If you want a quiet dog household, focus on rewarding quiet dogs and not barking dogs. If you do, you will find less and less barking happening. 

To begin using the quiet signal when your dog is barking, you will need to first get his attention if he's not looking in your direction – waving your arm in the air in his line of sight may work, or a gentle tap to his body. When he looks at you, be ready to give the quiet signal quickly before he looks away. 

If you’ve done your homework in using the quiet signal often and then giving a treat, your dog should at least pause and look at you expectantly. Reward quickly! If you wait, he may start to bark again because he’s excited about whatever he’s barking at. Continue to give the quiet signal and reward with several treats one at a time while he is quiet. And don’t forget the praise too! 

What if your dog gets quiet with the initial quiet signal and eats his reward, and then turns back to barking again? Don’t let him continue to bark. Get back in there and interrupt the barking again by getting his attention back on you. 

If he does not respond to your quiet signal at all, you will need to go back and review giving the signal and rewarding when he is already quiet. Your job is to make that quiet cue super important to your dog so he will pay attention to it. 

As you continue to practice the quiet signal, you can gradually space out those treats to get longer periods of quiet between each one. Give the first treat right away when the dog gets quiet, and then pause for slightly longer periods of time before giving the next treat, etc. Do this step gradually. Only expect a few seconds of quiet between treats at first. If you try to move too quickly, your dog will start barking again in between treats. 

You can build up the time as your dog is ready. Over time, you can give fewer treats, but rewarding the quiet now and then will help keep the behavior strong. Giving a quiet cue does not mean that your dog will never bark. Dogs bark. That’s something they do. A quiet signal will give you a way to communicate to your dog when you’d like him to stop barking. 

And if you teach your dog to bark on signal, too, then when people ask you if deaf dogs bark, you can show them that yes, indeed, they do! 

Teaching Deaf (and Blind) Dogs to Use Their Mouths Gently

A common complaint among those who live with deaf (and blind/deaf) dogs is that they use their mouths roughly. This is very common throughout puppyhood and adolescence, but if dogs are not taught to use their mouths gently, this problem can extend into adulthood.  Deaf dogs sometimes get a bad rap for being more aggressive than other dogs.  But this is a myth.  Let me tell you more ...  

Dogs use their mouths in many ways – when they eat, chew, play, discipline, bark, and too many more ways to list. Dogs can cause injury to humans if they are not taught to use their mouths gently and to be respectful of human skin. This means it is our responsibility to teach our dogs the behaviors that we like, such as treating our skin gently. 

We cannot expect our dogs to stop using their mouths because it is a normal dog behavior. Just like when we use our hands. But just like we must learn to use our hands gently and appropriately in life, so must our puppies learn to use their mouths gently and appropriately. 

Because there is a myth that deaf dogs are more likely to bite than hearing dogs, it is of utmost importance that we, as advocates for deaf dogs, make sure our dogs know how to be gentle and respectful with their mouths. It’s important that we can show others by example that deaf dogs can be safe and wonderful companions, so that more homeless deaf dogs can get adopted. 

Sometimes a dog that is deaf may have a harder time learning to be gentle with its mouth than a dog that can hear. Let me explain why. 

These lessons begin when a dog is still a baby puppy with its mother and littermates. When one puppy bites another too hard, the one that is being bitten will yelp sharply. This often startles the first puppy into letting go. That puppy learns that in order to continue playing with the other puppies, it needs to control the strength of its mouth. Since puppies play with their mouths, they learn to grip each other with less and less pressure. 

When a puppy enters a human household, it needs to also learn to control its mouth with its new human family. Human skin is even more fragile than dog skin and is not covered with fur as protection, so the puppy needs to learn to be even more careful with us than with other dogs. 

Our natural reaction when something hurts is to blurt out, “Ouch!” This will often stop a hearing puppy. Some puppies are more persistent than others and continue to bite too hard, but many will learn to play more gently to keep the game going. 

Obviously, deaf puppies cannot hear the other puppies yelp, or hear us say, “Ouch!” They may need some extra guidance learning to be gentle. One way of letting your puppy know that its play is getting a bit rough is to stop playing every time it bites you too hard. When it bites down too hard, immediately remove yourself from its reach. Remove the body part from the puppy’s mouth gently but matter-of-factly and stand up so the puppy cannot reach you. 

Exaggerate your body movement and facial expressions to convey your disappointment. The attitude of your body and face should be saying, “Ouch! Stop that!” The puppy will recognize the sudden difference in your demeanor. You should also say the word “Ouch!” out loud. Yes, I know the puppy is deaf, but saying the words will add to the genuine picture of how your body and face look. 

It’s important to note here that you should not allow yourself to get angry or act threatening. Remember that your puppy is just acting like any normal puppy would act while playing or while excited. It is not doing anything wrong; it just needs to learn how you would like to be treated during playtime. 

This break doesn’t need to be long. Once your puppy calms down, even for a moment, give the good dog signal and slowly and calmly return to its level. Allow your body and face to soften back to normal and begin to interact again but more gently and calmly. You must be consistent and end the interaction every time that your puppy bites too hard or plays too roughly. This is how it will learn. 

With consistency, you may find that just changing your facial expression and withdrawing your hand for a moment is enough of a reminder for the puppy to be gentle. 

Sometimes puppies can’t seem to stop themselves from grabbing everything around them in their mouths. This usually means that the puppy has gotten over-stimulated and needs help to calm down. Giving the puppy some quiet time to calm down is a good idea. It might be a good time to give a special stuffed food toy to occupy puppy’s mouth and encourage calmness. 

Be sure to praise your puppy frequently when it is interacting appropriately with you. In teaching our dogs to be gentle with us, it is important for us to also be gentle with our dogs. Playing games that mimic wrestling or slapping of a puppy will encourage it to play more roughly with us. 

While it may seem cute now with a little tiny puppy, think about that bigger adult dog with much bigger teeth. Will you still want the dog playing with you that roughly? If you have children, it’s especially important for you to model calm and gentle ways for the children and puppy to play together. Show your older children how to appropriately handle the situation if puppy gets too rough. Always supervise and be ready to step in during playtime. 

Keep lots of safe toys and chews around to help redirect your puppy from mouthing things you don’t want it to. Chewing on toys can keep a puppy’s mouth busy and help it learn appropriate behaviors. When your puppy is mouthing your skin too much or too hard, offer it a toy to chew on instead. Often that will be enough to divert its attention. 

A dog that knows to be gentle with its mouth is likely to be welcomed into so many more of the family’s activities than one that doesn’t. By taking some time early in your puppy’s life to teach gentleness, you can set it up for a lifetime of success.  

Re-Posting: Quality of Life for Blind/Deaf Dogs

This has been THE most popular and most read blog post that I've written.  The question of whether blind and deaf dogs can have a good quality of life is one that is asked a lot.  I think it is appropriate to post it here again as part of Deaf (and blind) Dog Awareness Week...

I received a lot of great ideas for new blog posts - Thank you so much for those.  I'm always looking for ideas to write about that will be useful to each of you as readers.  One idea that truly intrigued me was to discuss what quality of life a blind and deaf dog can have.  I think it caught my interest because I had never thought about my dogs not having a good quality of life.  I began to think about how we measure quality of life and why.

I have had many dogs in my life over the years, and there have been times when I have made the decision to have them euthanized when they no longer had a good quality of life.  Of course, this was always based on my opinion, the veterinarian's opinion, and the fact that I knew those dogs very well.  Pain is perhaps the biggest reason I would make this decision.  If the pain could not be controlled and if it was affecting the dog's daily activities.  If she no longer showed any interest in the activities that she used to love - then, in my opinion there is a loss of quality of life.

But now, I wonder, how do others measure quality of life.  Why would people think that blind/deaf  dogs don't have a good quality of life?  And were they seeing something that I was not?  I searched the internet, hoping to find some ideas.  I found this quality of life scale on a veterinary site.

 http://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/vet-practice-news-columns/bond-beyond/quality-of-life-scale.aspx

I'm going to use some of the ideas that are mentioned there to address my own blind/deaf dogs.  Of course, every situation is different, so I can't make any recommendations as to the quality of life for all blind/deaf dogs.

The first consideration is pain level and ease of breathing.  This is more of a health-related issue that would not be dependent upon the dog's ability to see or hear.  My dogs are healthy and pain-free at the current time.

The second and third sections pertain to eating and hydration.  My dogs are able to eat and drink normally on their own.  They are a good weight.  Again, this seems like more of a health-related issue.

The next section is about hygiene.  My dogs have no difficulty staying clean (although they do like to roll in the mud sometimes!)  They have no open and oozing sores.  Treasure does have many skin cysts, but they are not dangerous and don't cause her any discomfort.  The vet and I keep an eye on them in case they change.

The next consideration is happiness.  I think maybe this is one that most people wonder about with a blind/deaf dog.  The questions suggested on the scale are: does the dog express joy and interest? Is the dog responsive to things around her?  Is the dog depressed, lonely, anxious, bored or afraid?  Can the dog be included in family activities or is she isolated?

My dogs are all members of the family.  We spend a lot of time together as a family group.  They certainly express joy and interest in the activities going on around them.  They wag their tails.  They play.  They seek out affection.  They are responsive to things going on around them, reacting to air currents changing, movement and vibration, smells, the actions of other family members.  My dogs are not depressed or anxious.  I have no questions that my dogs are happy and content, and I do work hard to keep them that way.

Mobility is next.  My dogs have no problem with getting around.  I do manage the environment to keep them safe, but there is really not too much to do once the environment is set up safely for them. 

The last section says that there are more good days than bad.  For my dogs, each day has more good in it than bad.  Keeping my dogs enriched and happy is a huge part of my responsibility as a dog owner.  If I was not able to give my dogs what they needed, it might mean that I was not the most suitable home for them, but it would not necessarily mean that my dogs had a bad quality of life and should not live.

I can honestly say that my blind/deaf dogs have a wonderful quality of life.  Some people think that a blind/deaf dog can't possibly have a good quality of life.  They wonder what enjoyment a dog can possibly get out of life if she can't see and hear.  But dogs live in a world full of so  much more than sights and sounds.  Their lives are rich in smells and vibrations.  A dog that is born blind and deaf never learns to rely on her sight and hearing.  She doesn't know that she's any different.  She learns from the time she is born to explore and enjoy her world. 

Even my older dogs that have lost their sight and hearing from age, are still enjoying their lives.  Sure, there is an adjustment period where they may have to learn to rely on other senses and to do things a bit differently than they are used to.  That is to be expected.  But they still enjoy their walks and belly rubs and mealtimes.  They love to sniff around in the yard and find something to roll in.  They may even still enjoy that favorite bone. 

I hope the quality of life scale may be of good use to you, and thank you for the wonderful suggestion for this post.  It caused me to stop and think about what quality of life means, not just to me, but to others.  I hope that anyone who questions my dogs' quality of life watches the videos of them and sees them having fun in all activities.  

I hope we can change minds to realize that those with differences are not bad or to be thrown away.  When given the chance, they can blossom and teach us so much - and, they can have wonderful quality of life. 

Does a Deaf (and Blind) Dog Need a Hearing Dog Buddy?

Many people think that a deaf (or blind/deaf) dog needs to have a hearing dog to follow around.  This is usually not necessary.  Although, if you do have a hearing dog, your deaf dog will watch him closely for cues to things that are important to him – mealtimes, going for a walk, etc.  A deaf dog (or even a blind/deaf dog) will notice when the other dogs around him are getting excited, heading towards the door for a walk, or the kitchen for a treat.  In fact, sometimes it is even hard to tell which dogs can't hear, as the deaf dog learns to respond just as quickly as the hearing dogs.

A deaf dog will also watch you closely to see what cues you give.  Sometimes your deaf dog will notice cues that you aren’t even aware you are giving!  They are very good observers!  If there are not other dogs in the home for a deaf dog to take its cues from, it will take its cues from you and from other members of the household.  

Deaf dogs are individuals, just like people and hearing dogs are.  Some enjoy the company of other dogs, while some may not.  And some dogs get along with certain dogs and not others.  It's not fair to try to push certain dogs to live with other dogs if they aren't comfortable with that.  And, just because a dog enjoys playing with other dogs doesn't mean it needs to live with other dogs all the time.  It might be just as happy as an only dog that gets to have regular playtime with the dog next door. 

There is nothing wrong with having hearing dogs if you adopt a deaf dog.  There is nothing wrong with having several deaf dogs together either!  Any dogs that live together will develop relationships all their own.  Dogs don't really care which dogs can hear and which ones can't.  

We as humans love the idea of a dog "knowing" another dog is different and taking on the role as helper.  We have a fairy tale image of two dogs developing this type of relationship.  And it does sometimes happen and is a magical thing to watch.  But don't pair up two dogs with the expectation that one will take on the role of helper to another. 

In reality, this very rarely happens.  The dogs will develop a relationship, but normally it is not the hearing dog helping the deaf dog at all.  Normally it is the deaf dog learning to read the hearing dog's behaviors and what they mean. 

I have also lived with deaf and blind/deaf dogs long enough that I have seen them step into a helper role with my other hearing dogs on occasion.  Their ability to see and hear (or not) in no way hindered them from helping another dog in a useful manner. 

Please don't rely on myths when choosing dogs to live together.  Instead, take into account each dog as an individual.  Make choices based on each one's personality and what personality of dog would be a good match for the household and for the other dogs.  If you choose to live with a single dog, please don't ever feel guilty or sad about that, as your dog will be thrilled to have all your time and attention, and will learn to watch you just as closely for information as it might have learned to watch the other dogs.  

Deaf (and Blind) Dog Awareness Week

There's a special week every year set aside to bring awareness to deaf dogs.  This is Deaf Dog Awareness Week!  The gang and I want to also include dogs that are blind and deaf in our week of awareness.  

So many misconceptions exist about deafness and blindness, not only when it comes to our dogs, but in our human culture as well. Those of us with the senses of hearing and sight can't imagine what it must be like to lose them.  The truth is, we have become overly dependent upon these two senses.

If you've been reading my blog very long, you've seen my posts talking about all the other ways our dogs (and we!) can gather information from our environment.  Dogs are so in tune with things in the environment that you and I ignore on a regular basis.  Things like vibrations, temperature changes, light and shadows, air currents, scents, energy and intuition, that give them information about their world.

Many deaf and blind/deaf dogs are waiting in rescues and shelters for the right family to adopt them.  They are often overlooked in preference for a dog that can see and hear.  I can't help but think this is because of people's misconceptions and myths that get passed around.  

Do they know that deaf and blind/deaf dogs can go hiking?  Do they know that many really enjoy children?  That they can play with other dogs?  That they can play with toys and play fetch?  That they can learn cool tricks and even compete in certain dog sports?

The purpose of this special week is to highlight the amazing things deaf (and blind/deaf) dogs can do.  If we can change people's perceptions and impart new knowledge to them about what deaf and blind/deaf dogs are capable of, surely more of those waiting for homes will be adopted.  

Come along with us this week while we help to erase some of the misconceptions that exist, and while we brag a little bit about some amazing deaf and blind/deaf dogs we know! 

Benefits of Enrichment

What is all this talk about enrichment?  Enrichment is defined as improving or enhancing the quality of something.  So, enrichment in our dogs' lives is about enhancing their quality of life, giving them interesting things to experience and do, and in the process, we enrich our own lives too.  Providing enrichment for our dogs is fun and lets us use our creativity.

When we add these interesting things to our dogs' lives, however, there are other, extra benefits that may appear.  Every dog can enjoy and benefit from enrichment, no matter what senses they rely on or what their physical abilities are.  

Sometimes when our dogs have physical or sensory limitations, they tend to slow down their activity levels or the things they try to do on their own.  And we accept this as due to those limitations, but often it's because the way they experience the world has changed.  A dog that can move easily and freely and that can experience its world fully with all senses, gets drawn to different objects, movement, and activities in its environment.  If this changes and the dog doesn't see, hear and experience things in the same way, it may stop interacting with its environment.

Adding enrichment to a dog's day-to-day life can help to keep it interested, happy, and content.  It provides a sense of well-being.  Enrichment offers the power of choice.  We can empower our dogs to make choices about what they do during the day, so they aren't just sitting around waiting for something to happen. 

Enrichment builds a dog's confidence with new experiences.  Keeping a dog used to change is important, because our lives with dogs don't tend to always stay the same.  By continuing to introduce change into a dog's lifestyle, that dog will be better able to adapt to any changes that come its way.

Providing new experiences in your dog's life will help to enhance its mental sharpness and problem solving ability.  Enrichment keeps dogs busy and gives them a job to do.  Many breeds of dogs were originally bred to have a job to do every day. Sitting around the house is a poor substitute for a job, and this is where many dogs find their own "job" - one which people don't always approve of!  

Enrichment can help a dog to learn to enjoy quiet time alone and can reduce separation issues.  It can provide activities for dogs that are recovering from surgeries or injuries and may need to have crate rest time.  Providing new experiences can reduce stress and boredom, and hence, can reduce stress and boredom-related behaviors that people often don't appreciate.  

Whatever your reason for wanting to provide enrichment activities for your dog, I know you will find it FUN!  Fun for you ... and for your dog!  

If you'd like to learn more about providing enrichment for your dog, check out the new online class at Uniquely Paws-Able.  Every week you will learn new fun activities to do with your dog, as well as about the many enrichment toys you can buy - and many more you can make yourself with things you already have around your house!  You will learn some of the science behind why enrichment is necessary in a dog's life, and how to use enrichment activities to ward off behavior issues.  Class starts next week!  Hope to see you there!  

What's NEW!

Lots of new things going on here and I really need to sit down and catch up on posts telling you all about it! I'll begin here - there is a new bar across the top of the blog page where you can put your email address and subscribe to get all my new posts here delivered straight to your email box!  This way you won't miss any!  

Treasure, Vinny and I represented double merles at Double Merle Awareness Day on May 20th.  We had a table to greet people and educate about the dangers of breeding merle to merle, as well as about how even blind and deaf dogs can be amazing!  We had so many people come to meet the dogs and talk to us!  It was a great opportunity to get our message out.  Thanks to Keller's Cause (www.kellerscause.com) for creating Double Merle Awareness Day, and for sending banners and handouts all across the country to make it easy for us to all educate others!

Treasure, Vegas, Vinny and I were featured in Effingham Magazine with another opportunity to tell people about how to prevent double merles (just don't breed two merles together!) and how to live with and train a dog that may have different abilities (blindness and/or deafness).  The reporter and photographer did a wonderful job on the story!

Uniquely Paws-Able online school is growing!  We are now offering Positive Reinforcement and Clicker Training as a self study class, so anyone is able to take the class at any time that's right for them and their dog!  A new class is starting June 10th with the topic of Grooming, Husbandry and Handling Games!  This is very exciting, as there are so many dogs that find touch, grooming and veterinary exams to be stressful. Often these situations turn into a struggle for dog and person.  This class will show how to use positive reinforcement to create a dog that is willing to cooperate with every day tasks such as giving eye drops, cutting toenails, grooming and more!

If you haven't signed up at Uniquely Paws-Able, be sure to go check it out.  Creating an account will sign you up to receive updates as more classes and resources are added at the site.  And, it's very easy from there to look over the courses that are offered and enroll in the classes you'd like to take.  Everything is online and we have students from around the world.  We'd love to have you join us!

Vinny the Great!

Vinny was born into greatness.  Born from two merle parents, it was soon apparent that he could not see or hear.  The veterinarian was consulted about what to do - after all, what was a blind and deaf puppy worth? But one of the vet techs knew about Debbie and her experience with double merles.  A couple phone calls later, and Debbie had arranged to go pick up the special puppy.

Vinny was 8 weeks of pure Collie adorableness.  And even in that moment, he began his role as educator.  Debbie and Vinny explained to the breeder why he had been born blind and deaf.  The breeder had not been aware of this danger, and was grateful to know how to prevent this from happening in the future and was very relieved that Vinny would be safe.

Vinny has gracefully evolved into his role as ambassador for the humane society where he accompanies Debbie to work every day.  His many fans come to visit him, and he uses his special-ness to educate others about the dangers of breeding merle to merle, and about adoption.  He is a strong ambassador for blind and deaf dogs and that they are capable of living full and happy lives.  Through social media and a teaching blog, plus many videos, he is paving the way for other differently-abled dogs to be adopted and trained.

Vinny also spreads joy through visiting people in the community.  Young people are drawn to him and relate to his differences.  He teaches them acceptance and compassion.  When visiting with a group of Scouts, one girl said with disgust, "Eww, his eyes look different.  They look weird."  Very quickly, another said, "He doesn't know they look that way, and he is perfectly happy.  We should be too."  When Debbie looked closely, she realized the girl that had answered had a difference of her own and had related quickly to Vinny's differences.  These comments led to wonderful discussions of differences and acceptance.

The senior population have also been inspired by Vinny, who shows such happiness even though he can't see or hear, just as they are beginning to lose these senses themselves and are wondering what life will hold for them now.  One woman told Vinny that she was going blind, but seeing him and how happy he was made her guess that it was all going to be OK.  She thanked him and together they shared a private moment.

Vinny is a typical puppy - lively, playful, and yes, even a bit full of mischief at times!  But when he's visiting, all of that fades away and he shows calmness and understanding way beyond his age.  Although he can't see or hear, he finds a way to position his body next to someone with limited mobility so they can reach to pet him, and he gently puts his head under their hand.

This special dog and his person together spread joy, laughter, smiles, hope and inspiration.  Debbie teaches Vinny using mostly touch cues.  She touches various parts of his body in different ways to communicate her requests to him.  He knows basic obedience and manners, as well as many different tricks.  As a matter of fact, Vinny has already earned his Novice Trick Dog title and is working toward higher levels.  He loves to learn new things and is taught strictly through positive reinforcement methods.

Vinny also gathers lots of information about his environment by scent and by feeling vibrations.  He recognizes air currents when a door opens.  He can quickly  map out a new area when he goes somewhere new.  He loves to travel and has already traveled to several different states with his partner Debbie.  Vinny plays with the other dogs in the house and loves to play with toys of all kinds!  He gets lots of time to enjoy being a puppy, and he brings much joy and many smiles to Debbie daily.

Vinny's reach into the community and the world is already significant and will only continue to expand as he gains experience in his new role.  He and Debbie are amazing partners in advocating for rescue, adoption, responsible breeding, and the joys of differently-abled dogs.  They spread messages to everyone about compassion, acceptance and being kind to others - all things that the world needs so much of right now.  It is their hope that by spreading ripples in their own little corner of the world, that those ripples will continue to spread into something magnificent that blankets the world with love.

(The above was Vinny's nomination for the Collie Club of America's Shining Star Award.  Congratulations to Vinny and the other winners of this year's award!)

Tools to Help With Separation Conditioning

If your dog is already upset by being left alone, think about how you can change the picture for her.  If she is normally left in a crate, can you leave her in a different way?  Perhaps in an ex pen or a gated room?  If she is left in one area of the house, can you leave her in a different area?  Take time to condition her to enjoy and relax in the new area, just as if she was a baby puppy learning for the first time.  Can you avoid leaving your dog alone for a while until you can teach her a different way?  Perhaps taking her to a dog daycare or finding a friend or family member to stay with her while you’re gone? 

Giving your dog a totally different picture and environment can help break the habit of being stressed, but only if you take the time to help her know that it is OK to be alone.  Moving her to a different area or situation will prevent her from reacting to any possible associations she’s created with the current confinement space.

The more stress you can eliminate from your dog’s life in general will also be helpful.  There are several blog posts on this blog about recognizing and lessening stress in your dog’s life.  Dogs, like humans, hold their stress cumulatively, which means while they may be able to handle a little stress just fine, the more stress that just piles up and piles up on them eventually creates a breaking point and that’s when their behavior can really go south. 

There are tools that can help you in conditioning relaxation and low stress separation.  Of course, this list of tools is not complete.  It is meant to give you some options that you may not have considered before.  Not every tool is right for every dog or every situation.  Some dogs may not need any of them, and some may be helped by several. 

Remote treat dispensers – Remote treat dispensers can be set up to reinforce your dog while she is in the confinement area, and can be used to distribute treats when you are not in the area, so can be useful for transitioning to you being gone.  Be aware that if your dog gets very excited by food, this may not be the best option, as you won’t be conditioning calm, relaxed behavior if your dog is starting at the machine anticipating a treat all day.  These dispensers can be a nice tool to get you started though or to reinforce specific behaviors like being quiet in a crate.

Enrichment – Any enrichment activities that you can fit into your dog’s day will help with giving her mental exercise and help her be more likely to be able to relax when you want her to.   Some enrichment may be safe to leave with your dog unsupervised to help give her something to do while you’re gone.  This will depend upon your own individual dog and finding what works for her.  There are many posts on this blog about enrichment toys and games that can be used for any dog, not just blind and deaf ones.

Covered crate/ open crate – Some dogs are more comfortable in a covered or airline type crate with solid sides, and some are more comfortable in an open wire crate.  Yes, even blind dogs seem to have a preference.  Solid sides make for a more cozy feeling and prevent air drafts coming in from all directions which is disturbing to some dogs.  Some dogs can relax better in a solid crate because they feel secure knowing there is only one opening, where the wire crate feels open on all sides and can cause them to feel nervous or vulnerable and unable to completely relax.  Some dogs are not comfortable at all in crates and prefer a totally different solution. 

Chew toys – Any toys or bones that you leave with your dog unsupervised need to be very safe, and you need to have watched your dog with them enough to know they will not be biting chunks off and eating them.  Chew toys can help by giving your dog something to do and to help them relax.  Dogs tend to relax and nap after a good chew.

Bodywork – Bodywork can help your dog learn how to relax, and you can use it with your dog while she is in her confinement area to help her associate being there with relaxing.  Using bodywork at her normal bedtime may also help, as she will associate it with relaxing and then drifting off for a long sleep.  Massage, Tellington TTouch, Healing Touch for Animals, or any number of bodywork modalities can be helpful.  Some of these can be learned from books and videos, and others can easily be learned by taking classes in your area. 

Essential oils – Some essential oils like lavender have long been known for their relaxing effects.  This is not the only oil that may be helpful – consult an experienced practitioner or veterinarian for more information about this.  The best results come from therapeutic grade oils, not ones just made synthetically to smell pretty.  A practitioner can help you choose a quality that is appropriate.  Diffusing the oils in the room where the dog will be can help, especially if she is conditioned to relax with the oil diffusing before being left alone. 

Thundershirt, TTouch wrap – These are great tools for increasing your dog’s feelings of well-being and confidence, and in helping a dog learn to relax.  But they need to be worn when the dog is being supervised.  So, they could be worn if you are practicing separation but you are home and checking on the dog often to make sure she is not tangled or that she is not eating the shirt or wrap!  So, if you are doing cycles of leaving and coming back, this could be helpful. 

Sniffing and nosework games – I love any type of sniffing or searching games as enrichment.  Dogs love to sniff and search.  Giving them games like this to play every day, and especially before you leave them alone for the day can put them in a better frame of mind for relaxing and a long nap! 

Calming music – If your dog can hear, playing calming music can help her to relax, but can also drown out noises from outside which might keep her alert and wondering what’s going on out there.  It is best to condition the music during relaxing times when you are home at first.  Classical music can work well.  Two of my favorites are Through A Dog’s Ear and Healing Touch for Animals CD’s created with relaxation and calming of dogs in mind.  Even my deaf dogs respond to the music’s vibrations and will often lie by the CD player on the floor so they can feel the vibrations.  They also seem to be able to feel it if the CD player is on top of a solid crate.   Be sure to keep any cords out of chewing range and tucked away so the dog can’t pull the CD player down on top of her. 

DAP collar, spray – Dog appeasing pheromone products can also be very useful.  I find the collars (which stay on all the time) or the spray to be most useful.  I have not had much luck with the plug ins, but know people who have.  If the dog is staying in a crate, I would opt for the spray so the collar won’t get caught on any part of the crate.  The spray can be spritzed on the dog’s bedding before you leave or can be sprayed on a cover put over the crate. 

I hope this has given you some new ideas to try.  Put these last several posts together to create a program to help your dog feel more relaxed with staying alone.  If you would like help getting started, find a positive reinforcement trainer in your area to work with to help get you started and set up a plan that you can continue to work on.