Using Enrichment Positively

Enrichment is a hot topic these days in the world of animals.  Zoos use enrichment to provide the animals in their care with activities to keep their minds and bodies busy during the day in ways that mimic behaviors they might do in the wild.  Shelters use enrichment to keep the animals in their care calmer and healthier while they are waiting for new homes.  

Those of us living with animals in our homes and on our farms also use enrichment to prevent boredom, reduce stress, and provide our animals with opportunities to use their minds and bodies throughout the day.

It's important to tailor enrichment to your individual animal. I see some very elaborate and exciting new enrichment ideas online, and this is great and shows much creativity. 

I also see many people who comment that their dogs aren't interested in enrichment activities.  Animals, like people, find different things interesting and engaging.  Not all dogs will enjoy solving complex puzzles for food.  Dogs have different preferences for how they approach and interact with their environment.  

Using enrichment to have a positive impact on our dog's health and well-being involves finding what our individual dog enjoys and is interested in.  Finding activities that we also enjoy is helpful, because the more we enjoy doing the activities with our dogs, or watching them participate, the more likely we are to give these opportunities to them!  

It's popular to give our dogs enrichment toys and games that involve food because many dogs are interested in food, and because it's easy for us to put some of our dog's food into a puzzle toy.  My own dogs enjoy food puzzle games and toys. There are many ways you can incorporate food into enrichment for your dog.  

While many dogs do enjoy food-related activities and games, many dogs will also find these very frustrating.  After a while of being frustrated, they may even give up, finding the puzzles we create to be too difficult.  It's important to take the time to teach your dog how to use various food puzzles and toys, and to keep them easy so your dog can be successful before increasing the challenge. 

Enrichment doesn't need to involve food.  It can be as easy as allowing your dog to choose to follow a scent in a new direction on your walk.  You can also provide various scents for your dog to explore in safe ways in the yard or house.  Some dogs enjoy watching things, listening to things, or feeling various textures and surfaces like water in a wading pool. 

The key is to offer your dog a variety of things to try and see which ones he really shows interest in.  

Enrichment should allow your dog to explore and choose to participate in activities that he enjoys in a relaxed way.  If your dog is getting frantic about a food puzzle toy, ask yourself if the toy is enriching your dog's experience or if your dog is getting frustrated.  

Enrichment is not meant to be difficult, although adding challenges in small increments can be very good for your dog's mental well-being.  Allow your dog to succeed in the activities and toys that you provide.  This builds confidence so your dog is more likely to participate next time, and helps your time together to be enjoyable.  

If you'd like more great enrichment ideas, you can check out my online class here and read more posts on this blog for great ideas!  These are suitable for dogs that are blind and/or deaf, or that are seeing and hearing.  Dogs of all abilities enjoy enrichment!  

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header at the top of the page and add your email address!**

Moving with Deaf and Blind Dogs

We've been a bit quiet online lately, as we've made a couple major moves in the past year.  As many of my readers know, most of my dogs are deaf or blind/deaf.  Moving has been a major transition for all of us.  I often get questions about moving - especially questions about how to help blind dogs adjust to a new environment.  I hope some of these tips will help to make a move easier for you and your dogs.

Preparing for the move

Keep your dog used to change.  If you always keep everything the same, it will be harder for your dog to adjust to something different.  Take your dog to new safe environments and allow it to explore.  Go with your dog and help it to map out and explore new spaces.  Help to minimize hard bumps and stumbles.  This increases a dog's confidence and trust in you to keep it safe.

If you are moving a distance away, try to choose a new veterinarian before the move and have your dog's records transferred.  This way, if there is an emergency, or you need to schedule a vet visit soon after moving, all your dog's records will already be there.  You may also want to refill any prescriptions prior to moving so you won't have to worry about doing that right after the move.

Some dogs may do better drinking water from their old home.  Take some jugs of the water your dog
is used to to help transition it to the water in the new home.  This will help minimize stomach upsets.

Take important landmark items with you to have in the new space from the start.  These are items that have a familiar smell and feel to your dog - its bed, crate, bowls, and certain rugs that may have been by the door.  Having these in the new home right away can give your dog clues about its new environment.  Unpack and place these items first before bringing your dog into the new space.

In your new home

Be sure to show your dog to its water bowl several times a day at first.  Your dog needs to stay hydrated for good health.  Hydration also aides in scenting and your dog will be doing a lot more smelling and exploring than usual.  Make certain your dog knows its way to the water bowl by taking it there often.  Expect that during the transition your dog may drink more water than usual.

Each dog is individual in how long it will take to map out a new space and feel comfortable.  This is a transition and will take some time.  If your dog is not practiced with mapping out new environments, this process may take up to several weeks.

Try to arrange your schedule so you are home for at least several days in the new space if you can.  Spend time focused on getting your dog settled and comfortable, and helping it create a mental map of its new space. Keep your dog's routine as close to what is normal as possible.  This will help with keeping stress levels low and with maintaining house training.

It may be helpful to restrict your dog's access to all of the new home at first.  Many dogs feel more secure in a smaller area, so you can set up a pen with his things - bed, toys, bowls - or use gates to create a smaller area for him to map out first.

If you've used padding on furniture and corners, you may want to go back to using padding for a little while until your dog has mapped out the new set up.  You may also wish to use a halo harness - if this is a tool your dog is familiar with.

Take the time to gently guide your dog so it will learn paths to and from doors, its bed, toys, water bowl, etc.  This will take repetition, but you will notice with practice that your dog will begin to anticipate the path.  Then you can guide less and less.  Jump in to help if needed so your dog won't get frustrated, hurt or scared.

Things to consider

Expect to make more trips outside for business breaks.  The routine and the path to the door are different now for your dog, plus drinking more water and possible sensitive stomachs will mean needing to go more frequently.

Remember that moving is stressful.  Use various tools and techniques to keep stress levels as low as possible.  (There are other posts on this blog about these!)  Expect to see some behaviors related to stress - more barking, spinning, being clingy, chewing, pacing, etc.  Your dog may seem restless, or may even seem very tired and sleep a lot.

Some dogs may seem to become startled more easily.  This may be due to noises or vibrations that are unfamiliar in the new home.  Stress can also cause dogs to be short-tempered with people and other pets.  Often this is due to the dog being on edge and overly aware of everything in the new environment.  It isn't yet sure what to expect and what is normal for the new environment.  These behaviors should subside as your dog is once again feeling safe and comfortable in the new home.

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Sibling Rivalry?

If you search the internet for "littermate syndrome," you'll find many articles and posts explaining how keeping two littermates (or getting two puppies at the same time) can backfire in big ways.  While this certainly is not a 100% rule, it is a very serious situation and should be thought about carefully before deciding to raise two puppies at the same time.  

I have had sibling puppies in my home at the same time as fosters.  I've always made it a priority every day to give them a lot of separate time - separate sleeping areas, crates, playtimes, training times, socialization times, etc.  This means a lot of work on my part.  Having one puppy is a lot of extra work for awhile, but adding that times two = a LOT of work.  

It's important, though, that each puppy learn to be confident and independent on its own, not always relying on its sibling to see how to respond in different situations.  It's also important to the welfare of each dog that it grows up learning how to function without the other.  Things happen - dogs pass away, or get sick and need to stay at the vet, or need to be walked separately, or ... ??

Dogs that don't learn to function well on their own will be extremely stressed when they are separated from that security blanket of the other dog.  If you've read my blog for long, you know that stress can have very adverse effects on the physical, emotional, mental and behavioral well-being of that dog.  

I've also refused to foster two dogs together from the same intake group.  Most of the dogs I fostered had concerning behavior histories, and they came to me for rehab.  It's often very difficult to create changes in concerning behavior if the dog is still overly dependent on their sibling or housemate.  Changes can happen more quickly and permanently if the dogs can be separated.  But this is not always possible. 

Working in a shelter situation, I see this very sad side of littermate syndrome every day.  Two (or sometimes more) dogs are dropped off at the shelter with the comments, "oh, they need to be adopted together."  This is one of the saddest things for a shelter to hear.  You see, it's a job in itself to get single animals all adopted into great homes - when it is stipulated that they must be adopted together, those animals are more likely to sit in shelters for extended periods of time (or not make it out at all).

There are situations where bonded dogs cannot safely be separated.  They will injure themselves trying to escape to join the other dog.  They won't eat.  They may even begin showing self-injurious behaviors such as chewing on themselves until sores appear.  There are many situations where one dog has not learned to function on its own and its buddy passes away ... only for the other dog to pass away shortly afterwards, most likely from grief and stress.

As a professional trainer, I've had many clients contact me with issues developing between their dogs.  These may be siblings adopted together, or often, they are dogs from different litters, but raised together from a young age.  In many of these cases, the concerning behaviors have been going on for awhile and are being seen cropping up in other situations as well. 

I was reminded in a big way recently about the dangers of littermate syndrome.  I broke up two very serious fights among littermates this past week.  What really stood out to me, though, is the age of these puppies.  The puppies are just shy of four months old!  All are happy, outgoing, sociable puppies, that apparently had lived together thus far with no issues.  This is perhaps the most serious display between littermates that I've seen at such a young age.  

These fights were extremely serious.  Nothing broke the aggressor's (for lack of a better description - the puppy on top doing the biting and shaking) focus.  I didn't even get a glance away for a second in order to break up the fight - not noise, not movement, not bodily contact, not even trying to move a large object between them.  These puppies meant business. 

I had to scoop one up inside a rigid plastic whelping box and hold him inside it against the wall in order for the other one to slink away to safety.  And I held him there in the box for many moments until he calmed down enough for me to touch him and lead him away.  He was not going to give up the fight. 

What started the fight?  I really don't know.  I was there with them in the room, and it just exploded and escalated very quickly.  There was blood.  There was a puppy screaming and pinned down not able to get up.  And there was the one on top, completely engrossed on biting the other one in a frenzy.

It's not safe for these four month old puppies to be with each other anymore, which is very sad for all concerned.  However, they continue to be happy, outgoing puppies, and have not shown that they have issues with other, older, unrelated dogs or with people. 

Please research littermate syndrome - don't just read one site, read several.  Get the real gist of the broadness of the situation and symptoms, as well as what can be done to provide each puppy with lots of individual training and socialization to build confidence and independence.  This may be something that you are capable of doing and you're willing to take a chance with two puppies, or it may not be.  

But please research first.  Educate yourself and know what you're getting into.  It could go very smoothly for you, or it may not.  If it goes badly, it's heartbreaking to have to rehome one of your dogs because they no longer get along, and it's also heartbreaking to live in a home with dogs that need to be kept separate all the time so they don't hurt each other. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Ways to Appreciate More Treats!

Vinny says:

February 23rd - It's International Dog Biscuit Appreciation Day!  What a GREAT day!  I really appreciate dog biscuits every day, but having a special day means that my person will have a wonderful reminder to let me have even more of them!

So I started to think about more ways that I can get (and appreciate) more dog biscuits!

Do more tricks!

What about puppy dog eyes and an adorable expression?

Follow my nose!

Play with puzzle toys!

Go shopping!

Smooch my favorite biscuit baker!

What are some of your favorite ways to get more treats and biscuits?

A Guide Dog for the Blind Dog?

From time to time, I’m asked how someone can go about adopting a dog to become a guide dog for their blind dog.  Or how someone can teach their existing dog to guide the blind dog.  I’ve even been asked what is the best equipment to use to tether the dogs together, so the sighted dog can lead the blind dog around.  Sometimes we even see this happening in the media, and it is presented as a wonderful thing.  

But is it really?

I think first we need to have realistic expectations.  

Should I get another dog to help my blind dog?

When deciding whether to get another dog to help your blind dog, it’s important to consider that each dog is an individual.  Some dogs enjoy dog companions and some don’t.  And even among those that do, each dog has an individual personality, activity level, etc, and will not react to each dog the same.  It’s important to make the right match for everyone concerned.  

Will the blind dog enjoy  having another dog friend?  If so, what temperament and activity level are suitable?  Not all adult or senior dogs enjoy puppies and young, bouncy, active dogs.  Getting a second dog that will bump into or climb on top of the blind dog while trying to play may result in a lovely game between two dogs, or it might result in the blind dog becoming stressed and grumpy.  

Can your household accommodate another dog?  Caring for an additional dog involves greater financial, physical and emotional resources.  Is the household ready to take on those added responsibilities?  

Take your time when deciding whether to add another dog to the family.  Take your blind dog to meet other friendly dogs of various sizes and temperaments while you decide if this will be a good decision for everyone.  If it is, then take the time to find just the right match.  Don't rush into this decision.  

Can my sighted dog lead my blind dog around?

Is it realistic to expect a dog to understand, on a conceptual level, another dog’s blindness?  In my many years of experience with blind and visually impaired dogs, I'd say no, it's not especially realistic.  We all want to see this magical thing happen where the sighted dog takes the blind dog under his care and never lets anything bad happen to it.  This is more of a romantic view of what actually happens. 

I have seen dogs do amazing things for each other, including sighted dogs appearing to lead blind dogs around.  But this is not the norm.  You need to understand going into this, that those idealistic visions are not necessarily realistic. If they happen for you, that's amazing and wonderful.  But please take the time to consider what is probably more realistic.

I don't believe that dogs understand blindness in the way we understand it.  Dogs don't think ahead and realize that their buddy can't see something in his path, so perhaps they better move that buddy out of the way.  But dogs can learn that their blind buddy does things a bit differently.  They learn this by experience, observation and trial and error.  

For instance, my sighted dogs have learned that the best way to engage my blind dogs is to touch them.  They may play chase games or distance games with my other sighted dogs, but those don't work as well with the blind dogs and so the game ends quickly.  They learn that in order to keep the games going with my blind dogs, they need to maintain physical contact.  

Dogs aren't born knowing these different ways of interacting.  They learn them.  Nor are dogs born knowing how to look out for another dog's safety.  When push comes to shove, the sighted dog will push through a narrow space, even knocking over and into the blind dog to get where they want to go.  This is realistic.  This is how life really looks in a household with both blind and sighted dogs. 

Can my dog have a service dog?

A sighted dog leading a blind dog is not considered a guide dog in the service dog or assistance dog realm.  Assistance dog (including guide dog) is a legal term used by the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) to label a specially-trained dog assisting a HUMAN to mitigate a disability.  The assistance dog, when used in accordance to ADA guidelines, is permitted to accompany the HUMAN into public places in order to do its job (in this case guiding the person around obstacles and hazards).  It is the HUMAN with the right to take a specially-trained guide dog into public places. 

A dog does not have the legal right to utilize a guide dog of its own and go into public places where pet dogs are not already permitted.  Guide dogs are taught extensively the skills necessary to lead a blind person.  They are not born knowing how to allow a certain amount of space around their bodies to allow the person to clear an obstacle.  This is something that takes lots of specialized training and practice.  

Should I tether my blind dog to my sighted dog?

Tethering two dogs together, regardless of whether they can see or not, is rarely comfortable for the dogs.  I have not seen an example of tethering dogs together where both dogs are not showing signs of being uncomfortable. 

When dogs are tethered together, we are taking away two things that are very important to their well-being and comfort - personal space and choice.  Personal space is very important to dogs - just like it is to us.  They use space to communicate with each other, to feel safe, and to feel less pressured and stressed by situations.  In order to use space for these purposes, a dog needs to have the choice to move closer or farther away.  

Think about times when you are uncomfortably close to other people - conversations when someone is talking right up close to your face, a crowded elevator, a train or plane commute where you are sitting elbow to elbow with others.  Normally our choice in those situations is to create more space around us.  When we can't do that and our choice is taken away from us, we feel uncomfortable, stressed, maybe even anxious.  

Our dogs experience the same thing.  We take away their choice and their ability to use personal space to feel safe when we tether them to us or to each other.  It is not something to take lightly.  

When a blind dog is tied to a sighted dog with the intention of having it be led by the other dog, both dogs are likely to be stressed.  The sighted dog is being placed into a role and responsibility that is not natural for him.  As discussed above, a dog is not born knowing how to allow extra space around its body for another body not to bump into obstacles, trip over curbs, etc.  So the sighted dog only knows that there is another dog attached to it, following it, touching it, bumping into it or other obstacles.  He doesn't know why.  This is stressful.  What if the blind dog slows down, gets caught on something, or is bumping into things?  The sighted dog is feeling all of this through the tether and also not understanding that information.  Stress builds.  

The blind dog is certainly also stressed - being pulled by another dog into a space and situation he can't see.  It can't possibly feel safe to be pulled along everywhere.  He has no freedom to communicate that he wants to stop or go slower, or that he needs to stop and investigate something to know what it is.  I have seen some videos of blind dogs that are completely shut down and just follow wherever they are dragged, showing no interest in life, because they have no choice.  They must follow or be drug along.  Stress builds. 

Blind dogs can and do enjoy walks and exploring new places, please don't get me wrong.  But they enjoy this most when they can feel safe to explore and discover at their own pace, not because they are forced along.  Blind dogs do often learn to cue off of a sighted dog and follow along.  This learning is done by experience, the same way a sighted dog may learn to play differently with a blind dog.  The blind dog learns from experience that following the sighted dog leads to good and fun things!  This is fabulous and can be very helpful.  

Do you notice the difference?  When tethered, neither dog had a choice and it can be very stressful for both dogs.  Stress is not fun.  But when the dogs can learn from and with each other, each making choices and feeling safe, they can learn how to interact with each other and have fun at the same time!

Ways to encourage a beneficial relationship

There are ways that you can encourage your sighted dog and your blind dog to engage in mutually beneficial relationships.  Help them learn new ways to play together.  Can they enjoy playing tug with a toy together?  Sit on the floor with them and hold a long tug toy in the middle to help temper the play so that both dogs are able to hold the toy and play.  Help less as they get the idea to engage with each other.

If the sighted dog tends to like to play chase games or games at a distance and the blind dog is getting lost, use your own body to become a bridge between them.  Be in on the game.  As the sighted dog starts to dash off, encourage him to come back in close, while using your body to keep the blind dog engaged.  With practice you will probably see the sighted dog begin to realize that he has to stay a bit closer or touch the blind dog more often to keep the game going.  Then you can begin to back out of the game more and more. 

On walks, use two leashes to allow both dogs to walk at a comfortable pace for them, sniff, explore, etc.  A blind dog will often learn to listen for and follow the sound of a sighted dogs ID tags jingling, or you can add a small bell to the sighted dog's harness as well as to your wrist.  This will help the blind dog be able to keep track of each of you.  This may really help your blind dog learn to follow your sighted dog if this is important to you.  (Of course, be sure the sighted dog is not bothered by the sound of a bell jingling first!)

You will probably notice just in the course of day-to-day activities how your blind dog follows the sighted dog's lead. You may notice the blind dog following along slightly behind the sighted dog at mealtimes, potty times, etc, as he follows pathways around the house and yard.  But not all blind dogs will be followers.  Many will also be out in front leading the way!  

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

Acclimating Resident Animals to a Blind Deaf Dog

Whether you are bringing a new dog into your home that is visually/hearing impaired, or one of your current dogs is losing sight/hearing, there will be an adjustment period for each family member.  When there are other animals in the home, they will need to be helped with this transition.  Dog-dog interactions often give people the most concern.  Cats will normally find and retreat to a safer place to rest out of the dog's way.  Smaller animals must of course be kept safe from dogs that might consider them prey.  Today's post will be specifically about dog-dog interactions.  

Do animals know when another is blind/deaf?

I'm often asked if animals know that another animal is blind or deaf.  I don't believe other animals have a sense of blind/deaf as we think about it.  I do believe that animals are very adaptable and can  learn to interact and communicate with a blind/deaf dog in adapted ways. 

For instance, my dogs will adapt their play style to my blind dogs so there is more touching involved with the play.  The dogs that can see will approach and touch the blind dogs more often during play in order to keep the game going.  While those same dogs might prefer to play chase and keep away games with my other seeing dogs. 

My herding dog that enjoys having all of the dogs going in the same direction, realizes that my blind/deaf dog isn't following the pack of dogs into the house, so he runs back out into the yard to touch that dog and let it know that everyone else is coming to the house.  Does he realize that the blind/deaf dog cannot see or hear?  Only he knows the answer to that for sure, but I don't think those things really much matter to a dog.  

I do know that he realizes that he likes all the dogs to come in together and that one isn't coming, so he learned that going out to touch that dog will bring awareness to what is going on and the dog will then come to the house.

These are the wonderful stories that we as humans like to focus on - oh look at him helping his blind/deaf brother.  Isn't it wonderful and heart-warming how he looks out for him?

I do believe our dogs notice that another dog is not responding in the same way as they might expect, and so then they adapt their communication to be more suitable to the blind/deaf dog.  But this takes time.  Just like it would take us time and practice to learn a new way of communicating, the same is true with our dogs and other animals in the home.  They will need time to adjust as well. 

Dogs live by dog rules! 

There is another side of reality when living with blind and/or deaf dogs.  A deaf dog may get startled awake one too many times by the other dogs playing nearby and can jump up in a bad mood, perhaps even biting at the dogs that woke him up so suddenly and rudely.  To a dog, being bumped into suddenly is rude.  He is not being a bad dog.  He is acting and communicating normally with those that ran into him and woke him up. 

resting in an open crate

Animals have their own "rules" about what is appropriate and polite behavior.  Being awakened by another dog jumping on your head or stepping on your tail - not cool or polite.  And this may not just be the blind/deaf dog being startled suddenly.  A seeing/hearing dog may get tired of being stepped on or having its space disturbed by a blind dog as well.   

You may notice over time that your dogs learn to find new resting places where they are less likely to be in high traffic areas.  My dogs enjoy napping in crates that are left with doors open.  This allows them a place to rest nearby to the rest of the family activity, but they are safely contained in a spot where they are unlikely to be bumped or stepped on unexpectedly.  

The crate allows them that safety space around them that they crave to feel safe while they nap.  The open doors allow them to choose when they want to go in or come out.  

Blind dogs and space

Space is very important to dogs.  They use space to communicate with each other and to feel safe.   A blind dog can't judge distance very well without getting closer than many dogs are comfortable with.  Each dog has their own personal space bubble - some may be larger than others.  If you have multiple dogs, you probably have observed this. 

Some dogs like to sleep cuddled up next to each other, while others prefer to have space around them.  Others may like to sleep in an enclosed area such as under a table or in a corner. 

Unless dogs have an understanding of living with blind dogs already, they can have a real problem with a blind dog getting into their space, stepping on them, coming close while they are chewing a bone, etc.  They will think this is very rude behavior, and while they may appear to be tolerant the first few times it happens, if it continues to happen and the blind dog is not responding to their warnings to be careful and give more space ... well, that's when things start to escalate.  While it's upsetting to us, again, this is normal dog communication. 

The blind dog may be trying to get close to the other dogs to find a sense of security, or to investigate the bone they're smelling, without realizing that the other dog is giving him a hard stare to stay away, or is posturing its body differently, or even if they are growling or lifting a lip.  If we don't notice these signs and intervene, we risk our dogs getting stressed and injured.

Management is key! 

It's important to allow all dogs their own space.  Be watchful always and don't leave dogs unattended together for quite awhile until you can be certain everyone will be comfortable and safe.  This may mean some extra management on your part - using gates, ex pens, crates, different rooms or levels within the room (one dog on the couch if another can't reach the couch, etc), keeping dogs leashed when necessary, etc.

There is always management and intervention going on in my house, as I have multiple dogs, each with differing needs and personalities. 

If my younger bigger dogs are wrestling and running around while playing, I will help my senior dog move away from the activity and I will look out for him so he doesn't get stomped on or bumped into.  He can't hear very well anymore and he has arthritis.  I think some of his vision is fading as well.  He could get seriously hurt by being jumped on by a much bigger, younger dog - so I look out for him. 

Because he has been startled awake by my other dogs a few times, he can be grouchy when he is woken up suddenly by them and he will be quick to tell them off.  So I wake him up when we need to move past him or when the other dogs want to jump off the bed but he's resting on the floor nearby.  I wake him first in a calm and appropriate way, and then the other dogs can come through once he's moved out of their path.

My blind/deaf dog is large and young and boisterous.  It's up to me to intervene when he gets to be too much for the older, smaller dogs.  He has learned to be respectful of them but every now and then, his youthfulness shines through and he pesters them a bit.  If I don't intervene, I know he will be wearing a battle scar on his snout.

Creating a peaceful household

Giving each dog their own space in the beginning will help everyone adapt and feel safe.  Allowing short times together when you are actively supervising will set everyone up for success.  And if you have more than two dogs, allowing them together in alternating pairs first can be helpful.  Allow dog 1 to meet dog 2, then 1 to meet dog 3, then 1 to meet 4, then perhaps 1 -2- and 3, etc.  This allows the dogs to begin to create their own relationships without being bombarded by all the dogs at once.

This is a great idea for new fosters coming into the home, a newly adopted dog, and even for resident dogs with newly appearing special needs - such as losing sight/hearing, after surgery or injury, etc.

Be sure to safely separate dogs as necessary when you can't be home or when you can't supervise closely at first.  A disagreement can very quickly get out of hand and a dog(s) can get hurt!  There are many options for keeping animals separated when you can't supervise - gates, different rooms, crates, wire exercise pens (one of my favorites because they are portable and very versatile), etc.  

Leaving dogs to argue it out and settle things for themselves often creates more tension between them that quickly escalates and causes more concerning behaviors.  It's rarely sufficient to allow them to work it out themselves.  

Dogs, like people, learn very quickly which dogs they feel safe with, and which others cause them stress.  Think about people you are stressed by in your life - at work, school, etc.  You begin to have an automatic emotional response to them when you see them, or even when you hear their voice, right?  Dogs are the same.  

So if you allow your dogs to be stressed by each other and take matters into their own hands, often the stress continues to escalate until there are conditioned bad feelings.  This will make it very difficult to find and maintain peace in the future.  

Instead, set everyone up for success and feeling safe and stress free.  This will help you create and keep that peace going forward into the future. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, and online classes and resources there to assist you!  

Adding Scents to Help a Blind Dog?

When looking for advice about living with a blind dog, many sources recommend putting artificial scents in different rooms and on different surfaces for the dog to follow and recognize.

In theory, this sounds wonderfully helpful, but I've actually found that it can be very confusing for the dogs, as well as inconvenient for the human to continually reapply the scents to keep them fresh.

It is common knowledge that a dog's nose is one of its super powers!

It's been described that while we may walk into the kitchen and smell spaghetti sauce cooking, our dog can smell each of the ingredients used to make the sauce individually!

In observing my own blind dogs, they can easily tell the difference in the natural scents around them.  

The leash I use for every day walks smells different than the longer leash I use for letting them run in the fields, and smells different from the leash used for therapy visits.  The nail clippers smell different than the brush or the undercoat rake, even though they are all stored together in the grooming box.  How do I know they smell differently?  I know from my dog's reaction to each of those items - the reaction is different to each by smell alone.

My dogs easily know the difference between the rooms of the house, and even in different areas of each room.  I don't ever add any artificial scents to help them.  Each surface and object in my home has its own scent - a door smells different than a window.  A couch smells different than a rocking chair.  My dog can tell the difference between the smells of his toys and has his favorites, even among ones that are the same texture and shape!  

Has your dog ever had one favorite tennis ball among several?  Perhaps you've experienced this very thing in your home whether your dog can see or not!  Or what about the dog that chooses its very favorite stick and can pick it out of a pile of other sticks anywhere?  It's the same idea!  Our dog's noses are amazing!  

When we add artificial scents within the home, they are normally scents that are strong enough for us to smell readily. This means they are very powerful smells to our dogs - remember that their sense of smell is so much more sensitive than ours!

If I use a scented cleaner in my house, my dogs often sneeze or even go the other way.  My blind dogs don't like to walk on floors that have been cleaned with scented cleaners - even if it's a floor they walk on regularly.   The smell is just too strong for them. 

I think this is why people think that adding scents is helpful.  They add strong smelling scents to objects and obstacles in their home and the dog avoids them, so they think the dog is learning that the lemon scent means a doorway is there, and the pine scent means a piece of furniture is there - but really all the dog wants to do is avoid the strong smell.

It's much nicer to the dog to help him learn from the natural scent of the obstacles in the home so he can learn to navigate on his own.  It's also healthier, as some of the scents used may be full of chemicals that we and our dogs are then inhaling. 

If you've had any experience with nosework or scent work with dogs, you will also know that scent travels!  Think of the spaghetti sauce - you can smell it when you walk into the house, even though the kitchen may be several rooms away!  Right?

When you add a scent to the doorway, it doesn't just stay right there on the wood of the doorway.  It moves and spreads and drifts around on the air currents in your home, moving even several rooms away.  Sometimes scent also will collect in corners or in enclosed spaces, such as under tables or chairs.  Talk about confusing to the dog! 

It's not necessary to add artificial scents to help your blind dog navigate through an environment.  I have lived with blind dogs for a long time, and I have helped many, many clients with blind dogs.  I see it time and time again - dogs are amazing!  They can figure it out without us adding scents to everything. 

Your dog already is learning (or has learned if he's lived in your home for awhile) to associate the natural smells of the various rooms, objects, and obstacles with finding his way around your home.  He recognizes the smell of your couch, your bathroom, his bed, his toys, the path to the doors.  

If your dog is newly blind or is blind living in a new environment, take the time to help lead him around and let him explore while keeping him safe.  Help him learn to navigate his way around common pathways such as to the door to go outside, to his bed, to his toy box and to your favorite cuddling spot on the couch.

He will learn quickly.  And as you watch your dog finding his way around, take a moment to be amazed by the power of his nose!  His super power!

For online articles and resources relating to blind and/or deaf dogs, go check out www.yourinnerdog.com

To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!